The Snippet - Past News of the Silver Trade

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JEWELERS' ASSOCIATION A CONSPIRACY?

Washington, D.C.


Washington, D. C., Nov. 18.—A suit to declare the National Wholesale Jewelers' Association a conspiracy in restraint of trade in violation of the Sherman anti-trust law was filed by Attorney General McReynolds in New York today. The jobbers who are members of this organization are charged by the government with monopolizing the jewelry trade by boycotting and blacklisting manufacturers who sold directly to retail dealers and consumers. The court is asked to enjoin these methods.

Source: Farm Implement News - 27th November 1913

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THE BARKER SILVER Co.

New York


The Barker Silver Co., of New York city, have been incorporated with a capital of $50,000. Charles B. Barker and James N. Blauvelt, Brooklyn, and Charles E. Barker, J. W. Bird and R. L. Tarbox, of New York, are the directors of the company.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 6th December 1899

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FRAUD UPON THE DUTY DRAWBACK SYSTEM

London


A fraud on the Revenue having been recently attempted by an exporter, who entered tor drawback a quantity of old silver plate which had been re-burnished and presented to the officers for shipment as " New plate which had never been used."

The Board deem it right to call the attention of the officers to this transaction, and to direct them to use their utmost vigilance in examining plate presented to them for shipment for drawback, as the Board are informed that second-hand plate may be so polished and made up to resemble new plate, that the greatest discernment is required to detect it.

By the Act 52 G. III. c 59, drawback is only payable upon proof being adduced that the plate entered for exportation is " New and has never been used," and any plate that has been used, and upon which a claim for drawback is made, is liable to forfeiture, and the person entering such plate, to prosecution for a penalty of £100, or treble the amount of the drawback claimed under the 11th section of the Act 30th and 31st Victoria, cap. 82.

In the examination of the hall mark, the letter which denotes the date of manufacture, should be carefully looked to, as well as the initials of the maker. and when there are goods of different patterns and makers in the same claim, and articles consisting of separate parts, each parcel and part should be carefully examined, as each part should be stamped. The insides of tea or coffee pots, tankards, cups, &c, and the prongs of forks, should be closely looked at. Particular attention should also be given to the centres of plates and dishes, as in the event of the plate not being new, the lines of the "Scratch Brush" used to give old plate a new appearance, may be detected; the feet and handles also of dishes will show evidence of wear, if not new.

Should the officers have reason to doubt the bona fides of the transaction at the time of the examination of any plate, they should detain the goods and communicate with the maker, if practicable, or obtain the opinion of some respectable, competent, and disinterested Silversmith; It being at the same time distinctly understood that the onus of removing any doubt as to the genuine character of the plate entered for drawback, rests entirely with the person claiming such drawback.


Source: Minute of the Board of Customs - 29th August 1872

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J. B. & S. M. KNOWLES

Providence, Rhode Island


J. B. & S. M. Knowles, the silversmiths, of No. 95 Pine street, were slightly damaged by fire and smoke recently, but the loss was small, amounting to only about $400.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - February 1888

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BRITISH SILVERWARE ON FILM

Canada


A tour of the Dominions is being organized by the Board of Trade with a view of pushing the sales of British goods in the Dominions. A cinema touring car is travelling with the exhibition showing films of the various productions of the U.K. A chance will thus be afforded for the Canadian jewelers from Halifax to Vancouver to see for themselves British silverware and cutlery.

Source: The Trader - November 1920

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THE ARGUMENT FOR HALLMARKING

United Kingdom


Mr. Alfred Lutchaunig, in the course of a paper on the hall-marking of jewellery, read to the Society of Arts, advocated the abolition of the hall mark on articles of gold and silver, and proposed, in lieu thereof that jewellers should be compelled to give to every purchaser of gold and silver manufactures a written guarantee of the quality of the material. He considered there should be but three standards of gold used—12,18, and 22 carat, and that, to detect fraud, Government should appoint inspectors to purchase articles, in any stage of manufacture, for the purpose of assay. He also proposed that all plated articles should be stamped "plated." The proposals of Mr. Lutchaunig, if earned out, would amount to a serious interference with the liberty of trade. There is nothing at present to prevent any purchaser of gold or silver stipulating for a written warranty, if he doubt the honesty of the person with whom he is trading, and we are unable to see why 12 carat should be fixed as the lowest quality of gold permissible for jewellers, or why the legislature should interfere with any person whose vanity induces him to hope his friends will mistake his plated ware for the real metal, by compelling him to have the mockery stamped on it. To our mind, the forging of English hall marks on watch cases exported from Switzerland and America, which was one of the reasons given by the reader of the paper for abolishing the hall mark, is a strong argument in favour of retaining it, as showing the high estimation in which the English hall mark is held. The deception is to be deplored, but in countries where there is no enactment to prevent it, fraudulent imitation will be carried out by unscrupulous persons on manufactures of gold and silver, or anything else offering a chance of gain. But the people who would be misled by such a forgery, would, with the three fixed standards of gold proposed, be just as likely to be gulled by a watch case, or other article, got up to resemble English work.

Source: The Horological Journal - April 1876

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ROBERT H. WHITE

Providence, Rhode Island


Robert H. White, an old-time journeyman jeweler, who during his younger days heId positions as foreman of several of the leading manufacturing jewelry concerns in this city, died suddenly of heart trouble, at his home on Francis Ave., Auburn, last Wednesday. He was born in Manchester, England, in 1835, but came to Providence with his parents when a young boy. He attended the public schools here and later learned the jewelers’ trade, being employed for many years by Steere & Croker. He had an enviable war record. For the last few years his advancing age and declining health rendered him unable to engage in active work.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 24th November 1909

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A JEWELER HONORED BY HIS REGIMENT

Baltimore


Baltimore, Md., Dec. 10.—In the midst of festivities attending the re-election of a captain and two lieutenants of Company K, Fifth Maryland Regiment, on Thursday, Lieutenant Webb arose and in a neat speech presented to First Sergeant Edward H. J. Stesch a handsome sword, in recognition of his faithful service and deep interest in the company for eighteen years.

Sergeant Stesch was taken completely by surprise, but acquitted himself gallantly in his words of thanks. He is a jeweler in business at 604 W. Baltimore St.


Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - 16th December 1891

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NOKUME

Japan


“ Nokume " is the name of a Japanese alloy made by placing some exceedingly thin sheets of gold, silver, and copper on top of each other, and hammering them until they become thoroughly amalgamated. The sheet of alloy thus formed is streaked and mottled very handsomely, and is used to apply on other metals for decorative purposes. The “ Japanese silver” alloy is made of equal parts of copper and silver, boiled in a solution of alum, to which some copper, vitriol, and verdigris have been added.

Source: The Horological Journal - May 1886

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JEWELLERY FILM FOR U.S. TELEVISION

London


A colour film on modern British design showing the work of young jewellery designers Ernest Blyth and Frances Beck has been made by the Central Office for Information for distribution overseas, including 130 networks in the U.S.A.

The film, in the British Calendar series, has been produced by Michael Allder, who was impressed by examples of their work at the recent Design 67 exhibition at Cameo Corner, Bloomsbury.

It traces the creation of a piece of craftsman jewellery as Ernest Blyth is shown making the first drawings which are then developed by Frances Beck to the stage of the presentation drawing for a large gold collar in contemporary design.


Source: The Financial Times - 12th January 1967

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AN ODD SCARF PIN

Nashville, Tennessee


A curious scarf pin, worn by a Nashville man, is a petrified human eye, set in a gold frame. The present owner of this singular ornament found it in Peru while he was on an exploring tour in the land of the Incas with a party of scientists.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - 18th February 1891

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CHAMBER OF COMMERCE REQUEST FOR ASSAY AND HALLMARKING CHANGES

Sheffield


At a meeting of the Sheffield Chamber on February 27th, Mr. W. F. Beardshaw presiding, the following resolutions were adopted :—(1) “ That in the opinion of this Chamber it is necessary for the trade of Sheffield that a gold assay be established in the city, and that the President of the Board of Trade be requested to take such steps as may be necessary for that purpose"; (2) “ That having regard to the declared intention of foreign silversmiths to send their goods to this country in a partly manufactured state in order to receive the English Hall Mark, thereby making such goods appear to be of English origin and manufacture, it is resolved that this Chamber deprecates such use of the English Hall Mark, and strongly urges that if it be necessary for foreign goods to be marked in England, a totally different mark from that placed upon English silver goods should be used, so that foreign goods shall not appear to be of English manufacture." With regard to the first resolution it was derided that copies should be forwarded to the City Council and the City Members of Parliament, and as to the second, it was resolved to sign a petition in favour of the desired alteration of the law for presentation to the Lord Commissioners of the Treasury.

Source: The Chamber of Commerce Journal - April 1902

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PHANTOM SILVER

Birmingham


The Birmingham Assay Office has lately taken a step of considerable importance to the public by proposing to fix a minimum gauge for silver bearing the Birmingham hall-mark. Of late years, with the growing demand for fancy goods of all kinds in silver, the metal used has, under stress of competition (chiefly foreign), grown thinner and thinner, until the quantity of silver used seemed almost to have reached the proverbial “irreducible minimum.” A firm in the trade sent me the other day samples of two sheets of silver, the one representing the minimum gauge which the Guardians of Assay at Birmingham will stamp in future, the other the thinnest sheet hitherto used in the trade. The first is none too stout, but the second is of phenomenal leanness. You can crumple it in your hand like a sheet of paper; and with a little more hammering out I should think one could almost see to read through it.

This very thin metal is known in the trade as “phantom silver,” and the name aptly expresses it. It can, of course, only be used as a covering for some other substance. It is spread over such articles as photograph frames, or, filled in with cement or some other material, to make “silver" handles for umbrellas, button-hooks, and such-like goods. At the present time of year, when we are all saving up our money to make our friends pretty presents at Christmas, at the lowest figure that decency will permit, silver in this attenuated shape no doubt supplies a public want, especially among ladies; but I think there can be no doubt that the Birmingham authorities are serving the public interest in drawing a line beyond which they will not allow their hall-mark to be used. The public takes the hallmark to be a real guarantee, and so it ought to be, but it has come to be used on goods which have really a slighter coating of silver on them than the best electro-plate.

At a trade meeting in Birmingham two or three weeks ago, one silversmith mentioned that when customers had wanted some of these “phantom silver" goods engraved, his firm had been compelled to say that it could not be done owing to the thinness of the metal; and it was even stated that complaints had been received of the silver being rubbed off hall-marked goods by mere cleaning. The public may well think that under such circumstances they are being swindled under cover of the hall-mark. The trade is divided in opinion on the subject, and at the meeting above mentioned there were cries about the pressure of foreign competition, and the handicap which the limitation of the gauge would impose upon the Birmingham manufacturer. But the wiser spirits took the view that the hall-mark is their most valuable asset, and that they should resist its degradation in their own interest, and a resolution approving the action of the Assay Office was carried by a large majority. One silversmith remarked that it is the hallmark that really sells English goods, and I should think there is no doubt about that. Firms who think otherwise can still test the point by putting their “phantom silver” on the market without the hall-mark. If they are right, they will have nothing to complain of.


Source: Truth - 4th December 1907

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MISUSE OF UNITED STATES COINAGE

St. Louis


St. Louis jewelers who have been in the habit of converting gold and silver coins into jewelry and selling them at a nice round profit will have to discontinue, or at least they will have to be careful that in the transformation process they do not violate Revised United States Statute No. 5459.
Secret Service Agent Edward J. McHugh recently discovered several cases where coins had been smoothed on one side and a monogram engraved on the mutilated side. He consulted Assistant United States Attorney Dawes, who decided this was a violation of Revised Statute No. 5459, because the coin's identity is not completely destroyed and there is a possibility of someone being defrauded if the coin is put into circulation again. It was agreed that no prosecutions be instituted at present, but jewelers will be warned to discontinue such practices, and if any persist in it prosecutions will probably follow.


Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 15th December 1909

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TECHNICAL EDUCATION

London


Technical Education.—The Goldsmiths' Company have passed a resolution increasing their subscription to the City and Guilds of London Institute for the Advancement of Technical Education from £2000 per annum to £4000 per annum, the increase to commence from the 1st of January, 1881. This subscription of £4000 per annum is granted in addition to a donation of £10,000 already promised towards the building fund of the Central Institution, which is shortly to be erected in South Kensington.

Source: The Horological Journal - February 1881

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HALLMARKING OF WATCH CASES

Coventry


Mr. C. V. Pugh presided, at the meeting of the Coventry Chamber on October 1st. Mr. T. D. Smith referred to the hall-marking of plate, and mentioned that several watch manufacturers in Coventry reported improved trade, which pointed to the fact that the action taken on this question was already exercising a beneficial effect. It seemed possible that Coventry watch manufacturers would again reap the benefit of a Christmas trade, which for several years past they had almost lost entirely. He was informed by manufacturers who had been moving about England that there were inquiries being made for the English watch to take the place of quite a number of foreign gold watches that were being sold in England with false marks. Some of the Coventry manufacturers could compete almost at the same price as some of the foreign watches were being offered, now that the latter were being compelled to have the proper standard according to the mark placed upon the metal. Some of the local gold case makers informed him that they were busier now than they had been for years.

Source: The Chamber of Commerce Journal - November 1907

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A HARD LUCK STORY

Chicago


Louis Epstein and “Hard Luck” were born companions when he was a jeweler in St. Louis, and since his arrival in Chicago his close friend apparently has not deserted him. His apartments at 926 12th St., and the remainer of his belongings not taken by burglars who visited him recently, were damaged by fire Wednesday. Epstein discovered a fire in a closet early in the morning. The building and contents were damaged a little over $200. Three weeks ago burglars entered his 12th St. house and took 40 gold rings, the remainder of the stock of his jewelry business in which he failed recently at St. Louis.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 14th March 1906

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THE ONLY ENGINE-TURNER IN TOWN

Philadelphia


J. W. Ewing, who was with the Keystone Watch Case Company, has opened a factory in the Bowes building, to make engine turner and other high-grade jewelry. This is the only engine turning factory here.

Source: The Metal Industry - January 1913

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TREASURY DECISIONS

United States


One of the most important decisions made public during the past month by the Board of United States General Appraisers involved a question of the dutiable classification of imported wrist and fob watches. The findings of the board, covering many typewritten pages, was summarized by Judge Sullivan as follows: “Wrist watches, composed of a watch movement, set in gold or platinum case, in some cases ornamented with pearls and precious stones, attached to a leather or silk ribbon strap with a gold or platinum buckle, in some cases set with precious stones and in others plain, or to a wristlet of platinum or gold, also in some cases set with precious stones, are dutiable as follows: “The watch movements and cases at 30 per cent. ad valorem under paragraph 161, and the wristlets at 50 per cent. ad valorem under paragraph 167. The watch cases and wristlets are not dutiable as entireties as jewelry at 60 per cent. ad valorem under paragraph 356. “A similar watch, but having a silk ribbon fob with platinum and precious stone ornaments, instead of a wristlet, is dutiable as follows: “The watch case and movement under paragraph 161 and the fob as jewelry under paragraph 356.”

Source: The World's Markets - February 1922

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HARRY EMANUEL

London


A Charge of obtaining jewellery under false pretences has been made by two jewellers of Bond-street against Mr. Arthur Bootle Wilbraham, an ensign in the Coldstream Guards. The facts appear to be, that in the beginning of the year Mr. Wilbraham obtained jewellery from Mr. Harry Emanuel, of Bond-street, to the nominal value of £3,100, but in reality worth only £2,200, saying that he wished to make a present of them to a rich heiress whom he was about to marry. Mr. Emanuel swears that he told Mr. Wilbraham he would not let him have the goods unless he was going to be married, and this statement his manager confirms. It appears that on the same day on which he obtained possession of them, Mr. Wilbraham deposited the jewels with Mr. Robert Morris, of Carlton Chambers, Regent-street, as a security, partly for money already lent and partly for a further advance, with the condition that Mr. Morris might sell them in default of payment. From time to time Mr. Emanuel renewed Mr. Wilbraham's acceptances, and probably the charge of fraud would never have been heard of had not Mr. Wilbraham's name appeared, as it did lately, in the list of bankrupts. It is clearly an afterthought, and it is open to very great doubt whether a tradesman, having supplied to a young officer in the Guards jewellery worth only £2,200 for £3,100, leaving the enormous profit of £900, and having from time to time renewed his bills, can maintain a criminal accusation on the ground that the jewellery was sold to him not because he was highly connected, but because he said he was about to marry an heiress. However that may be, Mr. Wilbraham has been committed for trial ; and a similar charge against him, at the instance of Mr. Hancock, also a Bond-street jeweller, stands adjourned till next week.

Source: The London Review - 3rd December 1864

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